Sunday, May 3, 2015

Coral Sea Adventure

As I begin to write for the first time since we sailed out Sydney Harbour on April 19th (our 35th Wedding Anniversary) we are now more or less in the middle of the Pacific Ocean sailing north towards Hawaii. We've been steaming (motoring) non-stop for almost a week since we departed Pago Pago on Tutuila - the largest and the main island of American Samoa. American Samoa is situated just south of the equator and just west of the International Date Line. Of course crossing the IDL meant we doubled up on a day (last Sunday) and ever since the events department has been having trouble working out what is the actual day on the printed activities sheet (printed daily).

Sydney Skyline

Life on board Oosterdam is pretty hard to take ;-). For us it is a monotonous routine of sleeping in, late breakfasts (or early lunches), visiting the spa (Helen), taking in a movie, reading, playing trivia, partaking in the mandatory "Happy (cocktail) Hour" in the Crowns Nest bar, silver service dining in the sumptuous two story Vista Dining Room around 8pm. We generally stagger out of the dining room around 9:30pm having mentally prepared ourselves for the long trek from the stern to the late show in the Vista Lounge (theatre) at the bow of the ship (almost). I'm sure the cruise ship builders deliberately position these two venues as far apart as possible to ensure that passengers get some exercise during their "busy" day. This devious design also weeds out those who've drunk one or two glasses of red more than they should - walking along the winding corridors as the ship pitches and rolls in the gentle swell takes a special skill that red wine does not improve. After the late show we shuffle in to join the regular crowd at the piano bar where the laughter is as plentiful as the singing as we sit around the baby grand. Finally after our drinks waiter stops serving, it's time for a late night hot chocolate on the Sea View Pool Deck at the stern of the ship to take in the stars (occasionally) and the sounds and the smells of the ocean. When the weather permits we might also take a late night stroll around the Observation Deck and spend a few minutes on the forward verandah below the bridge.

Relaxing near the pool

The deprivations are particularly horrendous. Top of the list would be never experiencing hunger and the burden of choosing from the extensive menu and wine list. Selecting a cocktail for happy hour is also a burden nobody should have to endure. Then there are the music venues - so many to choose from. Now we don't want to create the impression that it is all bad. There are a few challenges that are not so burdensome (for us at least) and all involve adding to Holland America's bottom line. There's the lure of the "Onboard Opportunities" (seriously - that's what they are referred to in the Daily News / Activity sheet) including the Casino (wouldn't know what to do anyway), the Sale Days at the shops (Gift, Jewelry and Apparel) and last but not least the "Fine Art" Auctions.

So far we've experienced excellent weather - warm temperatures and mostly a long low swell that reminds us that we're travelling across the ocean. For a couple of days this week, as we crossed the equator, the sea was smooth (almost glassy). Overall we haven't had many sunny days but then again there haven’t been too many rainy days either and the rain has been in the form of occasional showers.

So a little about some of our ports of call. Our plans for a private History Tour fell through in Noumea (the only port on this trip we've been to previously) so we settled for a walk to the top of the hill behind Cathédrale Saint Joseph.

Noumea Harbour

Oosterdam berthed at the nearby Container Terminal

We were sharing  the port with several thousand Aussie passengers from P&O's Pacific Pearl.

Pacific Pearl berthed at the Cruise Passenger Terminal

The cruise ship passenger terminal was awash with Aussies and locals selling excursions on the very popular tourist train that drives around the city streets and the nearby beaches providing a running commentary to the passengers blaring over the loud speakers in each open "carriage". Whilst this excursion type is not exactly our cup of tea, sadly this style of tourist attraction (a multi trailer mini road train) would never be permitted to operate on public roads in our over regulated state of NSW.

Le Petit Train in Noumea

Rue de I'Alma
The following day we anchored off the beach at Easo on the island of Lifou, New Caledonia and were tendered to the pier on beach. This locale is very low key with some of the local French Polynesian community offering bikes for hire and locally produced souvenirs. The main beach is fringed by a coral reef and some snorkelers were rewarded with encounters with green turtles.

Oosterdam at anchor at Lifou

During our visit to Port Vila we were confronted with evidence of cyclone Pam. The CBD was not too badly damaged but in the outlying communities, where construction standards are fairly relaxed, the devastation is appalling. We saw plenty of evidence of NGO other international aid activity particularly in the outlying schools in Port Vila. By far the predominant building element in the greatest demand continues to be roof sheeting. Everywhere we looked, almost all of the factories, shops and warehouses have new (mostly green) Colourbond roofs.

Cyclone Damage are Port Vila

 Our snorkeling adventure - a private excursion (just seven of us), was to the least affected western side of the main island of Efate. Our guide Peter  took us aboard his trimaran to three locations just off the beach to snorkel around the coral reef.

Efate West Coast

Two of the dive locations were immediately adjacent to the camp sites selected by the producers of the ninth season of the American CBS competitive reality television series Survivor filmed in 2004.

"Survivor" Beach

Peter explained that during the filming the Vanuatu Government declared and enforced a no-go zone around the entire coastline to prevent unauthorsed filming that might interfere or otherwise undermine the surprise element of the series. Apparently the subsequent long term economic benefit flowing from this series in the form of additional visitor numbers to Vanuatu has been negligible.

Our next stop was Suva, Fiji on Sunday 26th however at dawn on the sea day between Vanuatu and Fiji we took part in what was probably the most significant event on board Oosterdam during this cruise for hundreds of Australians and a handful of New Zealanders (plus a number of Canadians and Americans) a  ANZAC Commemoration Service. Planning for the commemoration of this historic event started with an online Cruise Critic conversation and then several emails with Holland America. The Cruise Director Rick Barnes and his Events Team was tremendously supportive and the service was attended by up to 500 guests and some of the officers and entertainment staff (I originally anticipated up to 30 participants).



Our Master of Ceremonies was Rev. Major Barry Brown. Barry also delivered the address and New Zealanders Duncan Middlemas and Chris Cochrane and fellow Aussie Andrew McCarthy from Coffs Harbour each helped with planning and took an active role during the service. We were privileged to have the grandson of a Gallipoli Veteran (a stretcher bearer) on board who placed a wreath on behalf of all Australians. The service went off flawlessly and concluded just as the sun rose above the horizon. Dozens of passengers approached me following the service to thank me for ensuring that this significant commemoration took place and I was also thanked by Rick during the two shows that evening.

A wonderful surprise on this cruise has been reuniting with pianist, singer and all round entertainer Paul McDonell. We first met Paul on our first cruise aboard ms Zaandam on our Alaska to Vancouver Trip in 2011. Paul comes from Queensland and the Alaska cruise we shared was his first gig with Holland America. Sitting around the bar with Paul playing and singing is a hoot. Rather than try to learn the names of the regulars he refers to the guests by their home country eg. Germany, Holland, Canada and sometimes more specifically by their state eg. Queensland or location eg. Magnetic Island. The audience participates in song, actions and sound effects where applicable. Paul plays 7 nights per week from 9pm until after midnight. It is very tempting to skip the headline nightly show in the theatre just to stick around and not miss the fun.

Aussie Nite at the Piano Bar

On the subject of music and singing, on the morning we berthed in Suva we walked the short distance to Wesley Central Methodist Church to be part of their quarterly combined worship service. The singing was everything we could have wished for; every hymn and every item (from the various visiting congregations) was sung in glorious four part harmony. They are still using the Australian / New Zealand Methodist Hymn Book (lots of thee's and thou's) but we really didn't care. The congregation knew every note of their respective part and they weren't afraid to sing enthusiastically.

Suva Wesley Methodist Church

My pre-cruise research suggested that we could expect to find that Suva was a bit run down and unkempt. This was not the reality – the modern city that greeted us was neat and well maintained. Even though most of the city was observing the holy day, a few shopping malls near the dock were open for the visitors.

Port of Suva
Next edition we’ll share more of our adventure starting with the port of Pago Pago, capital city of American Samoa.

Sunday, April 12, 2015

Oosterdam Diverts to avoid Big Seas

Just one week to go before we sail down Sydney Harbour and across the Pacific Ocean. Holland America has opted to abandon the planned itinerary which included rounding the South Island and visiting the Fiordland National Park and has opted to set out for Australia via the Cook Strait.

Oosterdam's Position at 17:00 Saturday, 11 April 2015 AEST

The most likely reason for the change is the massive swell and strong winds (up to 60 knots) in the Tasman Sea which would have made negotiating the narrow entrance to Milford Sound impossible.

Swell in the Tasman Sea

For those who are a little interested in some of the details about the ship we will call home for just over three weeks, MS Oosterdam is one of four ‘compass-point’ Holland America Line (HAL) ships.

Until mid-April 2015 she has been based in Sydney, Australia circling New Zealand and many islands of the South Pacific, with 2- and 4-week cruises. Once we reach Vancouver, Oosterdam then sails the 7-night Alaskan fjord coast run. Cruises operate in alternate directions between Seward (the port for Anchorage) and Vancouver. From October 2015 onwards she sails out of Fort Lauderdale with 11- and 21-night cruises of the Eastern and Southern Caribbean.

Oosterdam is a Vista class vessel - a class of Panamax-type cruise ships, built by Fincantieri Marghera shipyard, in Italy. Vista class cruise ships are also operated by P&O Cruises, Cunard Line, and Costa Cruises. The ships are equipped with a diesel-electric power plant and an Azipod propulsion system. They've been designed so that eighty-five percent of the staterooms have ocean views and sixty-seven percent have verandas; the extensive use of glass in the superstructure of Vista class ships is also reflected in the class name.

ms Oosterdam

The ship has seven formal to casual dining areas. The two-deck main Dining Room serves open-seating breakfast and lunch. For dinner guests can chose between set-seating at first or second servings, or open seating on the upper deck.

Dining Room

There are two alternative restaurants: The Pinnacle Grill for steaks and seafood, and the Italian-American-influenced Canaletto.

Pinnacle Grill

At night the two-deck Vista Show Lounge offers (twice nightly) musical productions, cabaret, and live variety performances. Other entertainment offered throughout the ship includes musical recitals, dancing to the backing of a band ensemble, televised live sport in the multi-screen sports bar and my favorite - the pianist (or the guitarist earlier in the evening) in the Piano Bar.

Piano Bar

Recent movies are shown in the Screening Room. Through the evening the disco and nightclub happens on the top deck into the early hours of the morning. Though not my cup of tea, the casino has lots of playing options.

Interior Stateroom

Our planning is nearly complete. Books, movies and TV shows all safely stored on HDD. Documents all printed and stored electronically, Google calendar updated with the detailed itinerary including the local time zone. Cameras checked and luggage labels sorted. Banks and DFAT (http://www.smartraveller.gov.au/) notified. Even filled in our Customs and Border Protection outgoing passenger cards.

If you'd like to follow our little adventure leave your email address in the Follow by Email box on this page (on the right) and you'll get a message whenever I post something.

Another post coming soon.

Saturday, April 4, 2015

Cruise Commences in Auckland

M/S Oosterdam has just concluded her previous cruise steaming overnight from Tauranga to Auckland to be berthed alongside Queens Wharf around dawn.

A large number of the passengers who we will be meeting on board our Pacific Ocean crossing will be embarking on the New Zealand segment of the voyage today.

They will be enjoying an itinerary similar to our cruise aboard M/S Volendam (except in reverse) back in 2009.

Queens Wharf lies at the foot of the Auckland CBD and offers a unique vantage point overlooking the sparkling Waitemata Harbour. Home to two of Auckland’s signature buildings, Shed 10 and The Cloud, Queens Wharf has been transformed from a private working wharf to a public waterfront space.

The Cloud bathed in blue light with Pacific Pearl alongside Queens Wharf and
Volendam? alongside Bledisloe Container Terminal Wharf 

Below is a web cam view of Queens Wharf just after sunrise yesterday

Dawn breaks over Waitemata Harbour
and below just 24 hours later we have a completely different picture with Oosterdam alongside Queens Wharf and Sea Princess slowing as she approaches Princes Wharf immediately to the west (and just out of shot).

Oosterdam berthed and Sea Princess approaching.
Sea Princess has arrived from Brisbane and will also sail for Tauranga tonight.

Webcam view from Sea Princess Bridge

Sea Princess Itinerary
Until May 2015 Sea Princess is based in Brisbane sailing to New Zealand, many Pacific islands and Papua New Guinea.

On 22 May 2015 Sea Princess begins a 104 night world cruise departing Sydney and heading west to the Middle East through the Suez Canal then the Mediterranean, the UK, Iceland, Eastern seaboard of the US, Caribbean, Panama Canal, Inca coast of South America, Easter & Pitcairn Islands, and New Zealand. In October 2015 she has a minor refit in Singapore, then returns to her base Brisbane.

Finally at 16:15 Oosterdam pulled away from her berth,


maneuvered into Waitemata Harbour and headed out into the Hauraki Gulf to round Cape Colville (the northernmost point of the Coromandel Peninsula).


Tuesday, March 17, 2015

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Vertical Clearance Heights of Sydney Harbour Bridge

One of the posts in the Cruise Critic Roll Call conversation for this Oosterdam Cruise focused on the Sydney Harbour Bridge clearances. The headway limitation was cited as the basis for either/or the selection of the White Bay Cruise Terminal over the Overseas Passenger Terminal and also the departure time (tide related).

The dimensioned diagram below was posted to provide some interesting detail that might be of interest to our Cruise Critic companions in the lead up to this adventure.

The headway details are given in metres above chart datum which is Indian Spring Low Water (ISLW)
(ISLW is approximately zero at Fort Denison tide gauge)

Sydney Harbour Bridge is a single span arch bridge. The length of span clear of arch ring is 290 metres. The vertical clearance at the centre is 53.4 metres.